Corfu: The British Greek Island
Someone actually took me to task for this heading for Corfu, writing to me that the island is nothing like the UK and then going into detail about what they did not like about England. They were really offended. I wrote them a long explanation and the e-mail was returned as undeliverable. But the reason I called Corfu the British Greek Island, besides the fact that at one time it was British and they still play cricket there is because Corfu is featured in the schedule of most European package holiday companies catering for the sort of holidaymaker who is looking for a "home away from home" with guaranteed sun, cheap booze and lots of nightlife thrown in for good measure. It has, therefore, managed to earn itself a reputation for being full of karaoke bars, lager louts and "restaurants" serving fish & chips and Sunday roast beef. However, as Greek islands go, Corfu is one of the bigger ones - 33 miles long and 15 miles across at the widest point - and provided you stay away from the tourist hotspots like Kavos, Benitses, Gouvia and Ipsos , it's easy to find parts of the island which are virtually untouched by the tackier side of tourism. Head north out of Corfu town and within about half an hour's drive along the east coast you're at the foot of Mount Pantokrator, whose steep slopes and winding roads have made it unviable as a mass market development area and the coastline here is dotted with tiny turquoise coves and inlets. This part of the island is the closest Corfu comes to Albania - at one point you feel you could almost swim across - and it's almost impossible not to be touched by an eerie kind of sensation when you realise just how close you are to what was so recently an Eastern bloc country. It's also along this stretch of coastline that Lawrence Durrell lived while he was writing Prospero's Cell. The house is still there at Kalami but it's now been turned into a taverna. Over on the western coast is a beach-lover's paradise with such long sandy stretches of beach that even in the height of the summer season it's still possible to find a quiet spot. Look for Halikounas, Ermones and Pelekas , but if you want to avoid the crowds, stay away from Paleokastritsa , where the "film set" scenery inevitably attracts a regular influx of daytrippers. Inland is where you can discover a more untouched Corfu of fertile valleys, citrus and olive groves, where the most common form of transport for the local farmers is still a donkey. For those seeking tranquility and a place to commune with nature, there's even a wetland nature reserve (Lake Korisson) hidden away behind the south west coast - perfect for twitchers in the migratory season, or for lovers at anytime! Recommended background reading: "My Family and Other Animals" by Gerald Durrell for a glimpse of how Corfu was 50 years ago or for maps, walks, drives and regularly upated info - "Landscapes of Corfu" published by Sunflower.
(-Review by Elaine Key) There are many boats to and from Italy, Patras, Igoumounitsa and the other islands in the chain. There is also an international airport. There are many pieces of property for sale in the interior villages of Corfu where you can buy houses for excellent prices. top
Ithaki
One cannot list the Greek islands without mentioning the island of Odysseus if it is indeed the island Homer has written about. The island known as Ithaki is mountainous and rocky but has lots of trees and olive groves, as do the other Ionian islands. Several archeological sites which may or may not be associated with Homer's story along with some beautiful fishing villages and beaches make this an interesting island to visit either from Patras or Kefalonia. Ithaka is an ideal place for walking full of trails and views.Generally the island is small and quiet and June is really wonderful for family vacations.
Vathy (the capital of the island and the place where Odyssey Apartments is located) brings together the northern part of the island which has the best hiking and the southern part has the best beaches (quiet isolated coves, or bigger beaches). The best way to explore the beaches is by boat of-course.
You can take your car and come to Ithaka through Patras, where there is a ferry daily. The boat departs from Patras at 12:30 top
Kefallonia
Lots of Italians and British package tourists. Large green island with caves and underground lakes and all sorts of interesting geology. Locals known for being clever. Nice beaches. Village of Fiscardo was one of the most beautiful in Greece, but that was twenty years ago and has been taken over by tourists. Definately an off-season island and well worth a visit. Anyway you are lucky if you can find a room during the tourist season which goes from April to October. This is where the book Corelli's Mandolin takes place. Required reading. The movie is called Captain Corelli's Mandolin and has met with mixed reviews but if you see it you will probably want to come here.
It is nearly impossible to find a room here during the tourist season and if you do find one you may find out it has been cancelled three days before you arrive due to overbooking and the endless stream of flights coming in from Europe leaving one group and picking up another to take home. Daily ferry from Sami to and from Italy in the summer via Igoumounitsa and Corfu. Other connections to Lefkada, Ithaki, Zakynthos and Kilini in the Peloponessos. There is also an airport. The Mellisani Cave is an underground seawater lake featured in most guidebooks because of the amazing color of the sea. New archaeological discoveries have supported a theory that Kefalonia maybe the the Ithaki of Homer's Odyssey. top
Kythira
A beautiful island popular with the wealthy Athenians. It is south of the Peloponessos and the ferry runs from Neapolis, Githion and Kasteli in Crete. It is actually considered one of the Ionian islands. Nice beaches, beautiful towns. Accommodations are scarce so book before you go. if you are looking for a beautiful off the beaten path island this may be it. Most travel agents won't book this island so if you go you are probably on your own. If you get to Neapolis and the ferry is booked check out the island of Elefonisos. top
Lefkada
An island you can drive to in the Ionian chain, it is actually connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus that was seperated by a canal. It is surrounded by several smaller islands which can be visited, with beautiful pebble and sandy beaches, great restaurants and very friendly people who still dress in traditional attire. Nydri is Lefkadas primary tourist village but it has retained a certain charm. Anyway you have to go there to visit the smaller islands, one of which is the famous Skorpios of Aristotle Onassis and Jackie fame. For hotels on Lefkada see http://www.hotelsofgreece.com/ionian/index.html Buses to Lefkafa leave from Bus terminal A at 7, 13:00, 16:30 and 20:30 every day. The trip is 5 and a half hours and costs 30 euros. As far as I know you can't get tickets in advance. If you are a group for not much more you can get a nice Mercedes taxi and be picked up at the airport. top
Paxos
The east coast has small pebble beaches while the west coast has dramatic cliffs and caves accessable only by boat. Has not been infected by mass tourism the way it's neighbor Corfu has, though there are day trips from the larger island.Not many places to stay so if you are coming high season book in advance. You can find hotels for Paxos at http://www.hotelsofgreece.com/ionian/index.html or read a review of the island by local Elias Dendias at www.greektravel.com/greekislands/paxos You can book holidays on Paxos through Aegean Thesaurus Travel. top
Zakynthos (Zante)
Favorite Ionian Island of many expatriates and philhellenes. Shipwreck beach is one of the most famous Greece tourist photos and one of the most amazing beaches. Just because it is the last island on the list does not mean it is the last place you would want to go, unless you believe in the conservation of endangered species. One down-side to the island is the beach development that is endangering the sea-turtles who lay their eggs here. So is that a good enough reason to skip this island?
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